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化妆品以规模计,是淘宝上仅次于女装和男装的第三大品类。根据艾瑞的统计,2011年,中国化妆品网购规模达372.6亿元,在网购整体中的占比为4.86%。

此外,化妆品在淘宝上的卖家超过20万,淘外的独立商家也不在少数。这么庞大的一个群体,在中国电商行业里却几乎集体失语,原因何在?

答案或许是电子商务很难“封闭”。

对消费者来讲,化妆品难辨真假。所以,传统零售行业中,化妆品的流通渠道是封闭的,品牌商用封闭的渠道来消除假货。但互联网的开放、平等打破了“封闭”,传统品牌面对电子商务的时候,只能选择做还是不做,而不能选择在哪里做。

于是,化妆品品牌商对待电子商务的态度都很谨慎。

但市场对化妆品电商的需求巨大,这可以从每年数百亿的线上成交额中得到印证。当这些需求不能通过正规途径得到完全满足时,渠道串货、水货、假货等灰色甚至黑色的市场行为纷纷涌现出来。这构成了化妆品电商行业的“原罪”。这些原罪,也使得化妆品电商从公众的视野中隐匿。

任何一个行业,从野蛮生长到规范发展都有一个过程。化妆品电商走到今天,规范将成为行业的主旋律,也是行业“洗白”的必经之路。

争取品牌授权、开发自有品牌、转型代运营、立足小而美,这些都是能够让化妆品电商长期生存下去的活法。我们很高兴地看到许多电商正在这些道路上积极探索,我们用这期专题记录了他们的努力。

遗憾之处是,大卖家们在此时却集体失声,拒绝对外界传达相关信息,毕竟他们才是这个市场上的主角。为什么大卖家此时拒绝现身说法,这也许是另一个可以讨论的话题。

对于过去,我们无心追究太多,我们更关心行业如何在未来健康发展。这需要大家共同努力来推动。


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